Married in peacock

(Photos by Adeline Newmann)

The bride with her father

I recently had the pleasure of making a unique wedding gown for a friend. Erica is an artist currently earning her master's degree at CalArts. When she asked me to help her out, I knew we were going to make something exciting! I was especially thrilled when we went in the direction of working with some color (it is no secret that I am a fan of colorful wedding gowns!).

She was married on June 11 in a Japanese tea garden, where her peacock color scheme looked incredible.

While we were fabric shopping, we were struggling to find a brocade that was just right for the sash. I tend to be a bit on the selective side, I don't usually get a fabric or trim unless it seems exactly right. Sometimes it is hard to believe that one can't find the right fabric in blocks and blocks of fabric stores in Downtown L.A.'s Fashion District. Luck was on our side, though, when we stumbled over a gorgeous emerald green brocade with a gold peacock feather motif!



The fabric worked perfectly for the dramatic sash, tied in a one-loop bow, trailing behind the bride like a mini-train.




All that was left was to find the silks to complement the colors in the sash. The top of the gown is a taupe satin charmeuse, the cumberbund midriff is a gold silk taffeta (which I also used to line the underside of the sash) and the skirt is a rich royal blue also of silk charmeuse.


The bride created the antique brooch and peacock feather detail which we pinned on the back of the sash from a family heirloom pin and she also wore her mother's bridal veil.

What I love on Etsy right now: Mardi Gras Masks

With Mardi Gras just around the corner on March 8, I thought it would be fun to check out what Etsy has to offer in the way of masks for the holiday. Fat Tuesday is all about excess, so a simple gold and purple plastic half mask from Party City just won't do.

Here are some fun ones I tracked down:

Purple Lace Mask

The Mask of Strong Emotion





Scarlett Macaw Masquerade Ball Mask






Fire Bird Phoenix Feathered Mardi Gras Mask





Wild Lotus





Handpainted Damask Inspired Mask

Stuck on you

I was so excited to see this story pop up on my Yahoo! homepage. I love it when the creativity of young people is highlighted, I tend to think we don't hear enough good things about teens in our culture. Anyway, these teens are all being celebrated for creating their prom attire completely out of duct tape! The winners, pictured above, achieved a charming and romantic look. All that filigree must have been a challenge to execute! Many of the other finalists' designs were excellent as well, with lots of whimsical, period, or fantasy influences. This is a far cry from a duct tape wallet!

First Anniversary

I can't believe it, but I've now been blogging for a whole year! I know I'm not as prolific as many of the other wonderful blogs I follow, but I have really enjoyed my experience so far and hope you all have enjoyed it as well!

The First Anniversary, by tradition, is the Paper Anniversary... so here's some excellent paper fashion eye candy for you!

What I love on Etsy right now: Spring sale!

A friend of mine who used to work at the LA Opera with me now lives in Italy, designing and creating her own accessory masterpieces and selling them on etsy. And, as luck would have it, she's currently running a sale! Monjio Creations. You know you want all of these gorgeous pieces:

Spats! I mean, really... who doesn't want a set of SPATS?!

Hands off this awesome bolero made from a pair of trousers... I'm buying it as soon as I have a good excuse to wear it.

Fall bride? Yes, indeed.



Because you know you love love... the perfect bridal headpiece any time of year.

Quoth the Raven: Never before have I looked so good as I do on top of this
fantastic polka dot headpiece.

Derby Day

May 1st marks the 2010 Kentucky Derby, the oldest horse race in the United States. The race was first run in 1875 and was modeled after famous European horse races of the time. The race continues to be an illustrious event to this day, attracting the rich and famous and horse-lovers of all kinds. One of the most interesting traditions associated with the race is that women generally don hats, especially oversize, rather outrageous styles.

While I am not much of one for horse-racing, I do love hats and any occasion that calls for us to wear them. Despite The Hat having fallen out of fashion favor in the United States, hats worn for this event are of a scale so grand, we haven't seen anything like them since the height of hat fashion during the Edwardian era.

(Typical Edwardian hats)

So, in honor of Derby Day, I've scoured the Google Image Search to dig out my favorite hats from Derbys past. For an occasion such as the Kentucky Derby, I favor hats with broad, sweeping brims, festive colors, whimsical touches, and an over-the-top-but-still-elegant design.

(this Lady In Red get the idea!)

(A little My Fair Lady)

(just the right amount of modest extravagance)

(Kim Kardashian tops off her look with an understated by incredibly glamorous piece)

(the shape, size, and scale of this hat make me swoon... but wouldn't it be absolutely spectacular in a lovely spring color scheme?)

(this hat is fantastic! Whimsical and a bit outrageous, reminiscent of Edwardian millinery, but with a very flattering shape).

Although I'm not sure I'll ever make it to the Kentucky Derby, perhaps someday I'll find a group of hat enthusiasts to accompany me to the Santa Anita Racetrack for a fashion reenactment of the Derby.

Fly Girl (Another Stash Busitn' Project)

As promised, here is Stash Bustin' project #2, a little girl's dress (approximately size 3T) made from an old pair of jeans with the skirt and ruffle made from fabric in my collection. The hat and dress were so much fun, I think I have a collection in the works!

All Aboard! (A Stash Bustin' Project)

I felt really inspired by So Zo's Stash Bustin' challenge... inspired enough that I broke into my stash of my husband's old jeans with the holes in the knees and grabbed a roll of accent fabric out of my collection and... voila. A day later, I have an engineer's hat.

I plan to make another hat and a little girl dress... three new items from one old one!

"Getting dressed is a creative expression"

Saw this video of Iris Apfel on Advanced Style. She has great words of wisdom for the design lover and fashionista and it is a really nicely composed piece. Enjoy!

Accomplishing a handmade look

One great way to get a handmade look for less is to purchase a ready-to-wear wedding gown in a plain, simple design and then look at it like a blank canvas for your bridal design expression. Stores like David's Bridal of course always have economic choices. At $250, this was the lowest price gown currently on the J Crew website.


For one look, pair it with this $22 handmade bolero for a pop of color and a look that is unique.

You could also sew on some handmade pieces. These organza flowers available in sets of ten for $3 on etsy would make a lovely asymmetrical cascade starting on one shoulder, continuing down the back.


For a bolder look, you could add several fabric flower corsages like this one for $8.50 also from etsy.


Another idea is to keep the dress simple and make the fashion statement all about bold accessories that will steal the show. It is justifiable to splurge on accessories because there will likely be opportunities in the future to wear them again (which more likely than not will not be the case for your wedding gown). For example, you could have the hem shortened in front (image for visual aid purposes only!) and don a truly stunning pair of shoes that won't go hiding under a modestly long gown.



And rock a bold handmade necklace


Or an over-the-top hat or headpiece:


or like this somewhat more demure one available for just $145

(both pieces from Gena Conti Millinery)

You may also want to consider custom-dying your gown a la Gwen Stefani for a true rockstar look.


And you don't have to give up on the idea of a handmade gown. If you or a friend sews reasonably well, there are a large number of quality commercial bridal patterns available that can make the process fairly simple. (A word of advice from a bride who has made her own wedding gown: do NOT procrastinate! Give yourself plenty of time to sew and make mistakes and get help, etc. Plan to be done two months before your wedding so you can have those last several weeks to deal with the final details and RSVPs, etc.)

This simple but elegant pattern is available at any fabric store that carries Vogue patterns. When you sew your own, the options are limitless. You can be creative with colors and fabric textures, and pick great detail items such as exciting buttons (for an off-beat look, get vintage buttons and have each one be unique).

The cost of custom-made

(image from hu-made, a one-woman "factory" in New Mexico. I am borrowing it because she so aptly describes what it is to have something handmade.)

I just have to come out and say it. Having something custom-made, handmade, made just for you, is not likely to be the most cost effective choice. In this day and age and world, you are almost certain to find a ready-to-wear, factory-made, mass-produced thing for much cheaper.

When garments are made in a factory, the patterns are often made by computer, with the punching in of "typical" measurements to get the proportions right. Designs are engineered to require the minimum amount of stitching and labor. Fabric is laid out layer upon layer upon layer and cut with what is essentially a large saw so that many copies can be cut in the time it takes to cut one. The garments are then assembled by teams of stitchers who are often paid minimum wage at best, each stitcher usually completing one single part of the garment over and over and over again, and passing it to the next stitcher for the next component to be completed. Factories have large amounts of space and can buy fabric and materials in bulk, wholesale prices. The prices are marked up at least 100% over the wholesale cost when you buy in the store (increase that percentage by a lot more when you are buying designer). And then, if you want an excellent fit, you have to pay for alterations on top of the price you paid in the store.

When garments are custom-made, the patterns are draped and drafted to suit your specific measurements and shape. Designs are engineered to your tastes and desires, and many couturiers will create a muslin mock-up of your design to try on you to ensure that the size and silhouette are exactly what you want. Fabric is laid out carefully and patterns meticulously placed to ensure that the grain and size are just right. Garments are then assembled by an individual who pays explicit attention to the details and can incorporate many hand-finishing techniques that are simply too costly to incorporate into mass-produced garments. Many people who create custom-made garments work from their home and often must buy their supplies and equipment in low quantities and at retail prices (even though we're usually pretty good at knowing where the deals are!) An artisan who works from home must incorporate many factors into the price of the goods made: the space used in the home in proportion to the rent or mortgage paid, the time in planning and conceptualizing the product, the cost of utilities and supplies and appliances (and their upkeep) that go into running a small business, the cost of gas and car maintenance for shopping trips, as well as the cost of materials and labor (I believe my time is worth more than minimum wage).

When you buy custom-made, you are paying for what you get. You are not paying for factories, shipping fleets, advertising, retail stores and pushy sales staff. It can be more cost effective for some people (especially if you are considering purchasing a designer label), but one should not seek custom-made simply because they are looking for a bargain.

If you believe that you are the kind of person who wants custom-made but just really can't fit it into the budget (and that is perfectly reasonable!), stay tuned to my next post for some tips on how to get a hand-made look for less.

neat-o

I'm still working. But I want to share these great little gems with you!

From Monkapaws via Love My Dress